Sawtooth Wilderness by Leon Werdinger

Speak up to defend the Wilderness Act and America’s National Wilderness Preservation System from permanent climbing installations

The U.S. Forest Service is proposing to revise its directives to provide guidance on recreational rock climbing on our National Forests, including guidance required by the EXPLORE Act for climbing in Wilderness.

Wilderness and wildlife are under relentless pressures at this moment in history, including from exploding demand for outdoor recreation. Recreational rock climbing in Wilderness should be free of permanent alterations. Rather than hammer a wilderness rock face into submission, a climber may have to accept that a route that cannot be climbed, or descended, without anchors should not or cannot be climbed at all. Natural limits are essential to protecting Wilderness.

We need you to speak up to defend the Wilderness Act and America’s National Wilderness Preservation System!

But first, some background information:

The PARC Act, incorporated into the EXPLORE Act—which was signed into law on January 4, 2025—is a messy piece of legislation that attempted a de facto amendment of the Wilderness Act to benefit the recreational climbing industry.

The Wilderness Act is straight-forward—installations, including permanent fixed climbing anchors, are prohibited unless absolutely necessary to meet the minimum requirements for administering Wilderness. The Forest Service’s formal legal position has aligned with this proper statutory reading for decades.

But the PARC Act/EXPLORE Act says that permanent recreational bolting is an appropriate use in Wilderness when undertaken in compliance with the Wilderness Act—a wild exercise in circular reasoning—and now the agencies are tasked with making sense of the absurd in their new climbing directives.

While some of the language in the proposed Forest Service guidance is good, the guidance is undermined by a few serious flaws.

First, the guidance attributes the Forest Service’s strained legal interpretation of fixed anchors to the Wilderness Act when it should be attributed to the PARC Act/EXPLORE Act. The guidance also casts the Forest Service’s obligations under the Wilderness Act as discretionary rather than required. Furthermore, the guidance notes that only certain fixed anchors are allowable, but provides little to no mandatory guidance on the scope, function, and placement of such allowable anchors. The Forest Service punts administration to climbers themselves and references climbing management plans that are discretionary and wholly dependent on funding (not to mention political will). And finally, while the guidance provides room for local line officers and district rangers to restrict the use of permanent fixed anchors to protect wilderness character, these agency staff are already trying to do their jobs with limited resources and without political support.

Any implication that the Wilderness Act’s prohibitions can be overcome by the desire to enhance recreation is not only flawed, but also ushers wilderness administration to the precarious edge of a slippery slope. Wilderness administering agencies are facing a crossroads. The outdoor recreation industry, and its influence on public land management, is booming, and outdoor recreation pressures that were once front-country issues are pushing steadily into our most protected places. Meanwhile, agency wilderness programs are underfunded and deprioritized, wilderness-trained staff are stretched thin, and wilderness departments are increasingly subsumed by recreation departments. Combine these issues with decades of agency equivocation over permanent fixed climbing anchors in Wilderness, and you have the untenable situation at hand: exploding demand for developed recreational climbing, proposed agency guidance that confuses statutory language on prohibitions in Wilderness, and wilderness staff lacking resources to effectively protect Wilderness.

In this context, we need defenders of the Wilderness Act and America’s National Wilderness Preservation System to take action!

The U.S. Forest Service is accepting public comments through Monday, July 20 at this link:

https://cara.fs2c.usda.gov/Public/CommentInput?project=Directives-4622

Please speak in your own words, but make the following points:

  • The Forest Service should make clear the guidance is an attempt to comply with the EXPLORE Act’s mandates regarding fixed climbing anchors, not any mandate of the Wilderness Act. Under Section 4(c) of the Wilderness Act, permanent climbing bolts/anchors are prohibited "installations," and this has been the Forest Service’s formal opinion for decades.
  • The Forest Service must prioritize preservation over recreation. With less than 3 percent of the contiguous U.S. designated as Wilderness, these lands must be managed to preserve their wildness first.

  • The Forest Service still has an overriding statutory duty (not just authority) under the Wilderness Act to preserve wilderness character and ensure recreational activities—whether generally prohibited activities or not—are administered in a manner that keeps wilderness preservation primary. It is well-settled that the Forest Service is not at liberty to elevate recreational activity over preservation of Wilderness.
  • To comply with the Forest Service’s duty to preserve Wilderness, the guidance should also provide a clearer, non-discretionary framework for the approval, placement, maintenance, and oversight of fixed anchors, including making climbing management plans mandatory before permanent fixed anchors may be placed or replaced.  
  • The Forest Service must not allow new bolted routes in Wilderness until a climbing plan is completed. The agency does not allow the public to develop and maintain their own hiking trails in Wilderness, and the same should go for new bolted climbing routes in Wilderness.

  • Recreational climbing and climbing infrastructure create a direct environmental toll, including rock face damage, soil compaction, erosion from user trails, and wildlife disturbance. Climbing management plans must address this.

  • The Forest Service must ban the use of motorized drills for placing fixed anchors. The current draft guidance allows a loophole where climbing groups can request exceptions, which will inevitably flood Wilderness with loud, disruptive machinery. The agency must issue a total, non-discretionary ban on motorized rock drills for all recreational activities in Wilderness.

  • The Forest Service must be clearer about liability issues stemming from the allowance of third party installations in Wilderness, including liability for the agency itself and for climbers and climbing organizations who may be taking formal responsibility for placing and maintaining climbing anchors that the public will utilize for high-risk sport. 

 Help us protect Wilderness around the country. A generous member has pledged to DOUBLE all first-time donations up to $30,000 this year.

 

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Photo: Sawtooth Wilderness by Leon Werdinger

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P.O. Box 9175  |  Missoula, MT 59807  |  406.542.2048  |  wildernesswatch.org

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